One of my very first, and most memorable encounter with Germany, and its history, occurred during a student exchange trip to Wilhelmshaven in 2008. I was there to represent Malaysia for the F1 In School World Championships. During one of the days, we were out buying some souvenirs..
Kai and I asked our tutor a very simple question,
"where can we get some I Heart Germany t-shirts?"
Our German tutor appeared flustered before she replied, "we don't make those here - or even if we did, it'd be very hard to find. We don't want to raise any nationalistic slogan so much. Because some people are still affected by how we were like in the world war."
The sensitivity and respect in which they have handled their dark history was something that has struck with me since, and was further cemented when I made another visit, this time to Berlin, in the fall of 2014. This time, my attention to its culture was through architecture, as I begin to realise how this incredible country has found a way to preserve it's historical landmarks, yet have an abundance of room to grow into what it is today.
The most simplest way to catalogue my understanding of their buildings is through this basic observation: on one part, you have the old, large parliamentary buildings in the classical, or neo-renaissance style. Then, you have the modern city skyscrapers. And in between these two architectural movements, there are the beautiful memorials, museums, monuments, and a jawdroppingly vibrant urban street art scene!
If you're ever headed to Berlin and are interested in the built environment and design, here's a list of some of my standout places to visit.
1. The Reichstag Dome
Designed by Norman Foster, this glass dome sits on top of the Reichstag, a historic parliamentary building. It was commissioned around 1993 and was constructed to signify the unification of Germany, after the original dome was destroyed in a fire. Now, it's a glass dome with spiral staircases that goes up to an open air cafe. The view from the top is beautiful, and you can experience how the light bounces around the glass and a mirrored central cone.
To go up and visit, please book tickets online well in advance. Unfortunately, we didn't, so we had to go out early in the morning and queue up at the service centre next to the building. You can register early to go up for later that day. But you must bring your official identification (ie a passport) as the Reichstag is still a government building's that in use. You can find more information here: Bundestag
2. The Jewish Museum Berlin by Daniel Libeskind
During my degree, I saw a documentary of the Jewish Museum, and I've been fascinated ever since. Conceptually, the architect wanted to express feelings of absence, emptiness and invisibility, to express the disappearance of the Jewish Culture during the holocaust. The way Libeskind designed this museum was radical and creative, as he incorporated dead ends, empty spaces, narrow corridors, long passages with low ceilings to make you feel trapped, using materials that will echo your footsteps, and openings of light far away from you - all this element between the galleries and exhibits. One of the most memorable room was the tall, voided room, surrounded by cold concrete walls, where the ground was covered in 10,000 coarse iron faces to symbolise those lost during the holocaust. Theres are so many other elements to unpack for the architecture of this building, but I guess most of it you have to go yourself. This museum really isn't one of those boring pay to view affairs, and I admire Libeskind so much for showing that architecture, when used right, can give such a range of experiences and emotions. Tickets are priced at about 3 euros, and you can find more information here: Jewish Museum Berlin
4. Berliner Dom
Basically a large cathedral built in 1905, it's one of the most significant work by the German Empire. The style is a beautiful Neo Renaissance, with some Baroque influences that makes it feel like a palace. We only managed to drop by it at night so it was closed. But if you during the morning hours, you can go in, have a tour, and even climb 270 steps up to the Dome's walkway and get views of the Museum Island, the Reichstag and many more. Click here for opening times and ticket prices: Berliner Dom
5. Holocaust Memorial by Peter Eisenman
This €25 million project is a vast memorial park with 2711 large grey blocks on a sloping ground. It was commissioned as a memorial to all the murdered Jews in Europe - except Eisenman designed it without the traditional plaques, names, inscriptions or even religious symbols. Instead it's just a wide expanse of plot with the stone stab (or stele) in varying heights, creating an undulating surface. The stele has been traditionally used as an ancient architectural tool to honour the dead.
The blocks are all varying heights, from knee length to rising way above your head. Walking in between these blocks main feel like a maze, but climbing on top of them, will evoke the sight of a graveyard. The designed has received mixed reviews all over the world, but it's worth visiting as for its cultural significant. I found it extremely creative as it met its purpose without being alienating. Visitors can go through it and interact, and find their own meanings of the design.
6. Branderburg Gate
Designed aeons ago to mark the road from Berlin to Brandenburg, you can't miss this gigantic gate if you're in the city. My only honest comment for the Brandenburg Gate is that there are so, so many such gates in Europe (I could've posted this picture and said I was in Greece, or even Paris). It's the one thing I have with the quintessential classical/gothic architecture as it's abundant in Europe and eventually you get desensitised by its beauty (oh, another doric column? wow okay...). To be fair, this was inspired by the gateway entrance to the Acropolis of Athens.
When the Berlin wall fell in 1989, approximately 10,000 people gathered to celebrate at the gate, as prior to this, it was inaccessible for both sides. Now, the gate stands as a marker for a united Berlin. It's situated at Pariser Platz square which is one of the more picturesque areas in the city. Just be wary of your belongings around here as its a tourist hotspot.
7. Bonus 1 - Frank Gehry's Whale
I love Frank Gehry. I wish I could explain this particular structure, or give it an official name, but genius rarely ever requires explanation. Its been compared to a whale, a spaceship, and many other things. Basically, its a large titanium sculpture that sits in the atrium of the DZ Bank, just near Brandenburg Gate. The curved glass ceiling covers a walkway, conference and performance space that is only accessible to staff of the bank. Most people's view of this installation is similar to this picture, as the interiors of the Bank are guarded by security. I add this as a bonus because it's simply an eye treat to look at!
7. Bonus 2 - Panorama Point at Potzdamer Platz
This was one of those unplanned excursions. As we were walking down Potzdamer Platz, we saw a sign that advertised open air views on the 24th floor for about 7 euros! As most of you know probably I'm a sucker for vantage views haha. They also have a cafe up there, and the floor closes at 8pm so we got to see the sunset! It's aways these little joys. You can find out more about it here: Panorama Punkt
#nofilter
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